The chef in love with ingredients is the Grand Chef Mr. Akihiro Masuyama who supervises the kitchen at "MOSS CROSS TOKYO".
After training in French cuisine restaurants in Tokyo and Burgonge, France, he experienced as the head chef at the first herb garden in Japan, "Otaki Herb Garden" in Chiba. He also acquired qualifications as a herb coordinator and spice coordinator. Known as the "Magician of Herbs" Chef Masuyama skillfully incorporates herbs into his culinary creations.

Under the restaurant's concept of "Wakon Yosai" (harmony of Japanese spirit and Western techniques), this wooden box is full of Chef Masuyama's experiences, cultivated skills, and unique world. The appetizer served at the beginning of the course can be said to be Chef Masuyama's business card.

Chef Masuyama's strong passion towards "「SHOKADO-9」 9 ingredients a chef has fallen in love with" even changes each chef's positions in the kitchen.

"This appetizer is actually more important than the main dish. I put myself in charge of the appetizer section, from the preparation to the finalization of all the 9 dishes."

Although is unusual, the second from the top Chef is in charge of the main dish, while I focus myself on this appetizer.

The cost and effort involved in this appetizer are about three to four times more compared to a typical appetizer. With wide variety of ingredients, the preparation involves multiple stages, intricate cooking processes, seasoning, meticulous coordination with the presentation dishes, and specific plating. It requires a considerable amount of time and effort.

The "Kyoto Kinu Tofu Fermented Ravigote Sauce" is a dish that takes tofu, which is a representative of Japanese ingredients, and uses the power of fermentation to create a French-inspired dish with rich and layered flavours.

The key for the sauce, a crucial element in flavour, involves fermenting vegetables with their skins on, combined with spices and herbs, in seawater for 5 to 7 days. Afterward, it is finely chopped and mixed with preserved lemon, herbs, and finely chopped Ashitaba leaf. Even for each small side dish, it required a considerable amount of effort and attention to detail.

Chef Masuyama, while efficiently managing the busiest and most intricate appetizer section, he keeps one thing in mind.

"The face of the producers. The scenery from when I actually visited the local area. The wind and aroma I felt at that time. I want to recall those things and cook with them in mind."

Through small side dishes, Chef Masuyama not only shows the flavours of locally sourced ingredients, but also captures the essence of the wind and the freshly picked scents. He delivers the charm of ingredients he has fallen in love with.

Chef Masuyama frequently mention about the "connection with producers". He goes beyond simply using seasonal ingredients and adopts a unique approach of choosing ingredients based on the "season of people," a distinctive approach that only Chef Masuyama provides.

"I want to use ingredients that are in season for people with whom I have a connection with. I often think about using ingredients that are in season for certain individuals, remembering them in the process. I decide on the ingredients in this way."

Chef Masuyama personally visits various locations, falls in love with particular ingredients, and directly sources them from the producers. His connections extend across the country, and he currently has developed relationships with about 60 producers.

Every month, and sometimes every week, Masuyama san travels to various places to visit the producers. Masuyama san is called "Traveling Chef".

What moves him to consistently visiting to these locations?

"I still want to know more and see more. And, I want to create more dishes. I'm always thinking about those things. When I go to a place, I can imagine dishes from the landscape and the people living there. I believe that going to these places is the wellspring that inspires my culinary creations."

To create his dishes, Chef Masuyama uses his days off to travel. The person he thought of using ingredients from this time is Mr. Nishii from Sado Island, Niigata. They formed a connection about two years ago, and Mr. Nishii cultivates mainly persimmons and shiitake mushrooms in the rich natural environment of Sado.

This dish, "Sado Island Persimmon White Miso Dressing with Green Mustard", is made using persimmons sent by Mr. Nishii from Sado Island.

"As autumn and winter approach, I often think of Mr. Nishii from Sado Island and want to create dishes using persimmons and shiitake mushrooms. That's why I develop this menu."

The sweet and juicy persimmon white miso dressing gives the impression of traditional Japanese cuisine; however, it beautifully harmonizes with the refreshing spiciness of the green mustard, which adds a Western essence. Trying it reveals a delightful and impressive taste that takes you beyond the door of unexplored experiences.

Fascinating experience continues…

''Amazing Mushroom'' Herb Temari Sushi is a bite size Temari Sushi dish with fresh mushrooms and scent with impact.

"Mushrooms are directly delivered from Hasegawa-san, a producer in Shizuoka. I am in love with these mushrooms that I've decided to source them exclusively from Hasegawa-san. I believe mushrooms, with their captivating aroma, are an ingredient that charms people. The scent of freshly harvested mushrooms is astonishing! They are cultivated without pesticides or bleach, and since there's no pre-shipping soaking process in water, the aroma is direct and the texture is crispy."

Combining shiso, Italian parsley, capers, and the texture of pine nuts, and adding them to herb rice with homemade herb vinegar, then topping it with freshly sliced mushrooms just before serving. With each bite, the refreshing aroma of both Japanese and Western herbs, along with the fragrance of mushrooms spreads in your mouth.

Appetizer of "「SHOKADO-9」 9 ingredients a chef has fallen in love with" entertains both from your from sight and the taste. It will be renewed in 2022.

"I am also studying traditional Chinese medicine as an extension of herbs and spices. By incorporating elements of Japanese and Chinese traditional medicine, I aim to provide dishes that bring joy to both the mind and body."

"「SHOKADO-9」 9 ingredients a chef has fallen in love with" is a vegan course (Lunch with 5 dishes: 4,500 yen, Dinner with 7dishes: 9,680 yen)  and you can also enjoy the usual course (non-vegan).

The restaurant's main "CROSS TOKYO" expands its presence beyond Tokyo, to Fukushima, Fukuoka, Okinawa, and other locations. Grand Chef Masuyama oversees the creation of menus tailored to the concept of each branch. In April 2017, the restaurant also started cultivating vegetables at its own farm, "CROSS FARM," located in Chiba, in collaboration with the staffs.

Adventure for visiting producers and ingredients, the journey of the chef in search of love continues, with plans fully booked for the next two months to visit places such as Hachijo Island, Sado Island, Miyagi, Fukushima, and Toyama. The chef's journey continues. I wonder which charming destination and ingredients the chef is falling in love with this weekend? Looking forward to many more exciting adventures in the future.

Written by Mizuho Ajihara
Photo by Satoshi Araya